Palenque

Palenque sits where the low coastal plains of Tabasco rise abruptly into the emerald Tumbalá mountains of northern Chiapas. In the modern town, walking through the leafy streets of La Cañada brings the constant hum of cicadas and the distant roar of howler monkeys from the rainforest canopy. It is an unhurried, humid settlement anchored by a shaded central square where locals gather once the afternoon heat breaks. The ancient Maya city, originally known as Lakamha, reached its zenith in the seventh century under K'inich Janaab Pakal. Within the national park, the Temple of the Inscriptions shelters Pakal’s elaborate crypt, while the sprawling Palacio features a distinctive four-story observation tower. Across the Otolum stream, the Temple of the Cross group rises above moss-covered stone courtyards. Just outside town, the tiered turquoise cascades of Roberto Barrios offer a quiet swim beneath the jungle trees. At the Mercado Municipal, cooks steam tamales de chipilín wrapped in banana leaves and serve tascalate, a cold indigenous drink of toasted corn, cacao, and achiote. Every August, the community celebrates the Fiesta de Santo Domingo de Guzmán with marimba music and floral offerings. Catch a white colectivo van to the ruins at eight in the morning; you will avoid the midday downpours and see the limestone crests emerge from the morning mist.